Oh Canada, The Good and The Bad
I took the 7:15 A.M. ferry from Algonac, Michigan across the St. Clair river to Wallaceburgh, Ontario. The good moments in Canada started with a spectacular sunrise over Lake Erie while camping. My next night was spent at the Bluegrass Farms in West Elgin where the blueberries, pastries, and ice cream are so delicious. They also sell veggies from local farms. I then stopped in St. Thomas to spend a night with Lois and Dave. Lois was a 1976 cross country rider too so we spent hours talking about the trip and how it has affected our lives since.
And now the bad moments. The drivers were more impatient, shoulders not always available, and the risks people were willing to take while trying to pass me were unbelievable. The worst experience came twice in the same day. While going up a steep grade, downshifting as needed, I could hear the semi coming behind me and there was no other alternative but for me to keep on peddling. It’s only when I heard the screech of the brakes and “felt the breath” of the monster behind me that I seriously wondered if I would live to see another day. This is not a situation unique to Canada. It reminded me of the logging trucks from the trip in 1976 and even some of the back roads here in New England. I have mentioned meeting Taylor Nichols in Oregon and I’d like to bring it up again. He co-hosts a radio show called Bike Talk advocating for “bicycle transportation, mobility justice, and safer streets”. You can find that show at https:biketalk.org
Back to the U.S.A.
The most mileage I rode in one state was New York, 435.9 miles in 11 riding days, so if I used the calculator correctly, that averages out to 39.6 miles each day. I’m betting that you have already figured out that the ride was mostly flat, but it wasn’t that easy crossing the Peace Bridge from Canada to Buffalo. All bicycles must be walked across using the 1.1 mile pedestrian path, and it’s an uphill grade until a short ramp takes you down to the U.S. Customs. Needless to say, it was not the warm, fuzzy, welcoming feeling I was expecting!
Eventually I found my way onto the Erie Canal Trail and spent my first night at the Lockport Inn & Suites. I was impressed with the quality of this place, neat, clean, friendly, helpful staff, and bicyclists are welcomed here.
Following the trail was easy, just follow the canal, and when deviated to the road, green markings were provided which included directional arrows. Finding places to stay took some effort. I did spend two nights at state parks, Green Lakes and Verona Beach. Both were excellent except for two things. At Green Lake there is this hill you have to climb (yes I ended up walking it) and at Verona Beach, check the weather before you decide to camp along the shore. It was a “bit” windy and the howling kept me awake. The next two nights I spent at a hostel, the Speakers Reformed Church. One night was outside and very comfortable, the second night was inside and on the floor because of rain but at least I was dry. There’s a bathroom, no showers, water for drinking and snacks provided along with coffee pot and hot water.
My next night was spent at Lock 8. Cyclists are allowed to camp at the locks although the facilities are limited, no showers and sometimes no potable water. You also have to be aware of the Canadian geese who would love to share your food and also leave behind droppings to let you know they have been there! While there I got to see a good size boat pass through the lock and when they docked on the other side, got to meet Jack and Patty whose goal is to travel “The Great Loop”. They also spend a lot of time volunteering and helping people in need.
As I got further east there were more hills to climb, and on a day when 90% of the ride was uphill, I used that granny gear and made them all. If only I could have seen the future, but for now I was elated to be getting closer to home.
